‘Thwack, thwack, thwack.” This is
the sound that keeps interjecting the conversation between my girlfriend and
me, as the butcher in front of us chops whole chickens into quarters.
I am at Chicken Shop the latest
restaurant to try to update the classic high-street takeaway of chicken and
chips.
The fact that I found this place at
all owes everything to my girlfriend being able to spot a Chicken Shop bag
hanging over a doorknob on the Highgate Road.
Once inside it becomes obvious that
we are not the only ones to spot the bag as the place is packed and we are told
that a 45-minute wait is to be expected. We decline the wonderfully polite
option of going elsewhere and waiting for a phone call to bring us back and
decide to wait with a pint of Camden Ale and a glass of traditional lemonade.
Before we even have time to count
how many clientele are wearing thick-rimmed glasses – it appears popular with
people who work in the media - we were told that a space was ready, at the front
counter.
This is where we encounter the
butcher chopping away as several free-range chickens roast behind him. From
this vantage point we get to see the simplicity of the operation, as once the
chicken is quartered it is chucked on a plate with a sprinkling of salt added
and two lemon wedges placed on the side.
In the 10 minutes it took us to get
a seat we had already decided our order, as much like a famous Monty Python
sketch, the choice is limited.
We had heard that the servings were
generous – and they very much are - so we opted to share half a chicken and a
serving of crinkle-cut chips.
The service was as fast as the butcher
and we were soon chomping on the avalanche of food in front of us.
The chicken is the type of chicken
you would travel miles for, with a crispy skin and a tender texture, the chips likewise.
If this is too bland for some tastes then there are also a choice of four
sauces to add more variety; ketchup, garlic butter, hot sauce and smoky sauce.
We then decided on dessert and
plumped for the apple pie and ice cream. The generosity of the restaurant even
extends to allowing customers to choose the size of their portion. We went
large and were not disappointed, as the Chicken Shop must have attended a
special workshop on crispiness, because the pastry was perfectly crisp, just
like the chicken and chips.
I perused the restaurant’s wooden
benches and fifties rockabilly vibe as my girlfriend finished off the apple
pie. At the end of the meal I even checked out the toilets – lovely, since you
asked - and came back to see my girlfriend wiping her dress with a napkin. The splattering’s
of the butcher’s chopper had caught her. ”Never mind,” I said “I will lick it
off when I get home.” It really is that lovely.
Score:
4.5/5
A shared meal for two with
drinks and service costs about £25. 79 Highgate Road.
www.chickenshop.com
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